The US is home to the biggest sun care market in the world. According to market research firm Mintel, at almost three times the size of Brazil’s market, it is set to grow at a strong pace into 2016—where it is projected to top $1 billion.

Catering to this rising demand of formulating and marketing personal care with UVA and UVB defense, the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) continued its educational series of events with its October 2014 Symposium, Sun Exposure: Implications and Protection of Skin at the Pines Manor in Edison, NJ. Academic and industry leaders explored current research and development technologies as well as regulatory and marketing considerations. The event also featured vendor sponsored tables and a poster contest.

After opening remarks from NYSCC chair Steve Neidenberg and NYSCC Symposium chairperson Laura Spaulding Ph.D., a variety of industry experts presented the latest information on formulating products with UV protection properties. 

For example, John Staton of Dermatest, Australia touched upon universal challenges in sunscreen development.

“Formulators need to target global needs,” said Staton. “The temptation for most chemists is to focus on SPF. We also need to look at broad spectrum qualities.”

He explained why it is crucial to consider the different SPF and UVA testing requirements around the globe. Water resistance is another factor in formulating sun care to meet global demand.

“In reality, a harmonized SPF 30 is achievable…but an SPF 50+ with four–hour water resistance, 100% post immersion, broad spectrum is a big challenge,” he emphasized.

The Ins and Outs of Photochemistry
Photochemistry—such as stabilizing UV filters like avobenzone and anti-aging actives like retinol—was the topic for Craig Bonda, research fellow, The HallStar Company, Chicago. He noted that trends in photoprotection range from regulatory (UVA, broad spectrum, safety first) to packaging (continuous spray, “green”) to functionality (BB/foundations with SPF). And, of course, anti-aging strategies are key—especially with the retinol, as “photostabilizing retinol may make it more effective to treat photo-aged skin.”

“Cosmetic products that contain UV absorbing compounds are photochemical systems, so smart formulators should learn to ‘think photochemically’ about them,” said Bonda. “In the future, sun care and skin care products will contain technology that will provide complete photoprotection. These products will have a profound effect at preserving skin’s youthful appearance and health.”

Broad Spectrum Sunscreens: Challenges and Opportunities was another prominent presentation, brought forth by Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D., Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products.

“Sunscreens are an important product category not only in the beauty category, but they also address public health concerns. More than 90% of visible changes commonly attributed to skin aging are caused by the sun,” said Maitra. “People who use sunscreen daily show 24% less skin aging than those who do not.”

Maitra’s presentation outlined how the electromagnetic spectrum and sun exposure varies based on geographical locations. He also noted that “all broad spectrum sunscreens are not created equal” as the amplitude of UVA protection varies dramatically.
“Skin protection from damaging sunlight requires a multi-layer defense such as avoiding unnecessary sunlight or highest UVB intensities of sunlight as well as using a high-SPF sunscreen for skin that is exposed,” said Maitra.

Sun Care Savvy
Ultimately, the desire for protection and new sun care regulations make North American consumers look for products that promise efficacy, observed Sarah Jindal, senior innovations and insights analyst for Mintel, in her slideshow “The Sun Savvy Consumer – What’s Hot and What’s Next in Sun Care.”

Rising trends, according to Jindal, include cross-category sun protection (skin powder, hair oil), innovative packaging for sun protection (pump dispensing tube, cushion compact), added skin care additives (oil control, anti-inflammatory) and even whitening (lightens and brightens skin).

For 2015, Jindal contends that extending sun care ranges for specific groups based around attitude could present an opportunity; brands can also use consumer price consciousness to encourage loyalty and more usage—fueling the sun care marketplace, one product at a time.